Good Restaurants in Highlands and Islands of Scotland

Good places to eat in The Highlands and Islands of Scotland



For years we struggled as visitors to Scotland to find good restaurants, never mind good seafood restaurants. It has been something of a pain for a long time now that the vast majority of Scottish fishermen's catches are sold to under contract to the Spanish, who ship it out in huge quantities by articulated lorry. In recent years, however, there has been a small and steady improvement in quality, quantity and range of local produce on offer. This small collection of reviews covers a number of restaurants/eating establishments that we have visited in recent years and which consider to be worth going out of the way to visit.

We have eaten at far more places in Scotland than are included in this list but the exclusion of an establishment is not necessarily a demonstration of a lack of quality on its part. It's far more likely that we just haven't eaten there! I will endeavour to add to this list as and when we find more places worthy of mention.

This guide does not cover Edinburgh and Glasgow as they do not suffer from the same dearth of eating establishments that the highlands does.

So in no particular order, with clickable links to thier web sites via the picture if they exist (if you find a dead link then please let me know), this site looks at the following establishments;



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Orasay Inn - South Uist

The location and external appearance of this place are somewhat deceptive. On the way to Loch Carnon, it is a fairly low-lying and bleak area dotted with the many new and functional dwellings so typical these days of the islands. The Inn itself has a a kind of prefabricated feel to it but inside the bar has a warm feel and out the back, looking over this wilderness is a very pleasant restuarant conservatory. If the restaurant is fully booked, and it may well be if you havn't booked ahead, then you can always eat in the bar, although this can get a little smokey. The Inn specialises in local seafood, which is well cooked, nicely presented and very good value for money. The staff are also very friendly and the atmosphere informal and warm.

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Langass Lodge - North Uist

Tucked in the trees, down a lane off the road to Lochmaddy, this hotel/restaurant has a nice feel to it with lots of old, nicely patinated wood. Interestingly it features two menus, one for the bar and a different one for the restaurant. The bar is a pleasant affair with comfy seating and low wooden tables while the retaurant is a bit more high class. Bar drinks, however, are avaialble in the restaurant. The food is excellent. I had a langoustine and lobster risotto that was to die for, the lump of monkfish for my mains was on of the biggest that I've ever seen and the Baily's cheesecake for pudding topped it all off brilliantly. The owners and staff are all pleasantly attentive and easy to talk to.

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Scarista House - Harris

This place had been on our hit list for a long time and I'm including it in here with something of a caveat as the ownership has changed in recent years. Were it not for the good rapport we struck up with the other guests in the lounge before dinner, which created a very pleasant atmosphere, I'm not sure that I would have been sufficiently impressed to include it on my list. The food was very good, even if the portions were a bit on the parsimonious side. The bitter chocolate torte at the end was fabulous and although nobody hurried us away from the lounge after coffee we found the atmosphere in the restaurant far too stuffy with the attitude of the head waiter lending a bizarre victorian formality to something that should and could have been far more relaxed. I also had an issue with the set menu, which offered no variation at all and in my opinion demonstrates a certain arrogance on the part of the chef. There was also a billing error which was rectified but no apology offered. All in all I can't say that it was the best value for money but the food was very good.

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The Crannog - Fort William

There was a time when just about all you could get in Fort Bill was a bag of chips but thankfully things have improved considerably and when the Crannog opened it was like a breath of fresh air. Nice, light atmosphere and well-cooked, wholesome local seafood. It has become something of a favourite and is very popular. You are best to book well in advance of your visit.

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The Old Library Lodge - Arisaig

Another caveat here because we understand that the people who were running this place when we first went there have sinced moved on. We hope sincerely that the new owners have continued the excellent menu. It has a sort of mediterranean feel to it with tiled floor and ironwork tables. The cooking is not traditional and is healthy mix of ethnic and modern. You have to drop into Arisaig off the new bypass and the restaurant is located on the waterfront, next to the Arisaig Hotel. If it has a fault then it is that depsite such a lovely position you don't get much a view from the restaurant.

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The Cabin Cafe - Mallaig

As the name suggests, this is a cafe during the day but in the evening it converts into a bistro-esque restaurant and specialises in local seafoods, which is very well cooked and presented with generous portions. The plate of langoustines the missus ploughed through when we went had to be seen to be believed. Lino floor so not exactly posh but the grub makes up for it and the folks are very friendly too.
Telephone 01687 462207
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Whitehouse Restaurant - Lochaline

It's always nice when you come across good places to eat almost by accident. By the same token, however, the fact that we came across this place by accident makes us slightly concerned for its continued existence. The drive through Morvern to Lochaline (pr Lock Allen BTW) is lovely and the last few miles is alongside a beautiful tree-bordered river. Lochaline itself is on the sound of Mull and offers a shorter and more regular crossing than Oban. In future I will be using this route if only to make sure we stop at Whitehouse for lunch as it's a great little restaurant, worthy of patronage. A bright, modern interior accessed through the shop/PO its position and outside appearance belie it considerably and the food is wonderful. I think that at the least they should put a sign on the Strontian road to encourage people to visit them as they're well worth the effort to get to but if my words encourage just a few people to make the trek then I will have done my bit. There are other attractions. Morvern is a great place to go Eagle spotting, particularly in Glen Teacuis and the small road from Lochaline to Drimnin is a lovely drive. Both sides of the sound of Mull are deeply and richly foliated

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Calgary Farmhouse Hotel - Galgary, Mull

Calgary is in a wonderful position, set above one of the few sandy beaches in north Mull. The Farmhouse Hotel is the only facility of this standard in this part of island. By day it is a very good art gallery and lovely cafe while later on the restaurant offers superb local seafood. The chairs in the resaurant are also made by the local resident sculpture with no two the same and all having superb character. Local Eagle spotting is also very good and there is a very good sculpture trail in the woods above the farmhouse. The lunchtime food at the cafe is both interesting and delicious.

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The Cuckoo Wrasse - Dunbar

Another one of those sublime moments of serendipity. We were driving home one weekend from the far north and had decided to go down the A1 for a change, if only to see what we could find. We stopped in Dunbar, which has a handy tourist car park at the top of the town on the northern side and wandered down the High Street to see what gastronomical delights could be found. Well, we didn't find any. The best that there seemed to be was a chain bakery so we wandered into Tourist Information and asked if there was more to be found beyond the High Street. To be fair to the lady she said that she shouldn't really be recommending one establishment in favour to another but she also said that down on the quayside was a restaurant called The Starfish which may be worth looking at. We are so glad that she did. Set in an old pub with a warm, shady, panelled lounge open to the kitchen at the back. Wonderfully cooked local sea food in a really laid back atmosphere. The place has subsequently changed its name to the Cuckoo Wrasse but this is because of a dispute with another commercial organisation using the Starfish brand. Lunches as well as evening meals. Phone and book beforehand to avoid being disappointed.

Tel 01368 865384

Photo by Martin Burns
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The Summer Isles Hotel - Achiltibuie

I have included this place on this list despite not having eaten there because several people who's opinions I trust have recommended it very highly. Wonderful position on the shore overlooking the Summer Isles, north of Ullapool, in an area called Coigach which offers fabulous walking on such famous hills as Suilven, Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor, Cul Beag, Quinag and Canisp. Worthy indeed.

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The Old Forge - Inverie

If the Old Forge lacks the same depth of detail in the menu that the other places in this list have then it more than makes up for it with attitude and position. The bar is warm and friendly, the beer very well kept and the food simple but delicious. More than worth making the trip from Mallaig (or Barrisdale Bay for that matter!) to get to.

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Kilcamb Lodge - Strontian

Kilcamb Lodge is a good place to stop either before you venture along the long road to Ardnamurchan Point to fortify yourself for the journey or on the way back to reward yourself for the accomplishment. Set back from the road beyond Strontian, behind some trees and down by the shores of Loch Sunart, it is a lovely old lodge building, beautifully kept by the friendly proprietors. The food is both imaginative and delicious. Apparantly Christmases at Kilcamb are something of an event and worth booking ahead for.

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Seafood Restaurant - Tarbet

Situated above the jetty at Tarbet, opposite Handa island, this is a beautifully located little family run cafe. On a good day the sun streams through the window of the conservatory that makes up the cafe on the front of the house. Not really a retaurant as such but the food is extremely fresh, very tasy and well presented. Friendly folk, good service. A real lunchtime treat. Also, if you have any interest in birds whatsoever then a trip out to SNH's reserve (Not RSPB!) on Handa is a must
Tel 01971 502251
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Kylesku Hotel

I'm not a great fan of hotels that you find on main roads. They're not usually a reliable source of great food but the Kylesku Hotel seems to be an exception. It is in an absolutely stunning location at the head of Lochs Glendhu and Glencoul and if at all possible you should try and sit at one of the outside tables, which are by far the best places to enjoy the view. From your table you can also watch for seals, otters and eagles. The food is very good fayre indeed. A kind of pubby interpretation of seafood but tasty, well cooked and presented. The staff are also very friendly. On a nice day it can get very busy so it you really want a seat then phone ahead and book a table.

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The Ceilidh Place - Ullapool

In a town that generally serves its visitors well, the Ceilidh Place in Ullapool stands out as the best night out. Bright, airy and modern, it offers good food in very pleasant surroundings throughout the day. Look out also for the schedule of events which include a lot of live music. You can do an awful lot worse than have this place as a local if you're staying in the area. A big shout also for the Ferry Boat Inn on the waterfront of the town which aside from being a really nice boozer also offers a very good range of real ales. The food, however, is too basic to warrant an entry on its own in this guide.

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The Applecross Inn - Applecross

The Applecross Inn has, in my limited experience at least, always been a fairly popular place. The drive over the Bealach Nam Bo is a spectacular entry to a place that is quite remote so the pub it seems has been seen as something of a prize for the tourist, simply because it takes some getting to. While the food was always quite good it has in the last few years made the jump into excellent, with a huge emphasis now on locally caught seafood. It is very popular and turning up on spec on Sunday lunchtime is a gamble. I had agreat Smoked mackeral and langoustine chowder when we were last there.

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The Kimberley Inn - Findhorn

Findhorn is a popular village on the South Moray coast east of Inverness and at the mouth of the River Findhorn near RAF Kinloss. It has two pubs and the Kimberley Inn has an excellent mix of ambience, good food and real ale. It's probably best visited out of season when there's enough people in the fairly stripped back bars to create a nice buzz without it getting stuffed to the gunnels. That's when the lovely open fire in the back bar is also on the go. Great local seafood; Chowder, fish pie, crab, mussles and scallops and a long-term resident cook make it that bit more special. Bellhaven beers and right on the waterfront too, with outside tables. A great spot indeed.

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Chris Gilbert - Last updated 31st January 2007